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Lipstick Manufacture

Lipsticks consist of pigment dispersed into a mixture of oils and waxes. The range of pigments and other raw materials permitted for use is strictly limited by regulatory authorities including the EU and FDA. Oils used include castor oil, mineral oil or petrolatum; waxes include beeswax, carnauba, candelilla and ozokerite (ceresin). Waxes can be used in either powder, flake, prill pellet or solid form. Silicone compounds are also sometimes used in the base formula. Other ingredients include emolients, pigment dispersants, preservatives and fragrances. Some products also incorporate additional properties such as UV protection or pearlescent finish. Typical ratio of oil:wax:pigment would be as follows: 

Oil: 50 - 70%

Wax: 20 - 30%

Pigment: 5 - 15%

Lip salves (or balms) are formulated from a similar base, but instead of pigments they contain additional moisturizers, sunscreen agents or “active” ingredients such as camphor. 



 

 

The Process

Lipsticks are generally manufactured in small batches. A typical manufacturing process would be as follows:

  • The oil is heated in the process vessel to 175 - 185ºF (80 - 85ºC). The waxes are melted separately in a hemispherical jacketed vessel (often called a “kettle”) typically fitted with an anchor stirrer/scraper. Part of the oil may be added to the kettle to aid the process.
  • The wax phase is added to the oil phase. Various types of mixers/dispersers are used to combine the two phases. 
  • A “pigment grind” is prepared by dispersing the powdered pigment into part of the oil using a triple roll mill, bead mill or similar conventional mill. Increasingly premicronized pigments are used. These do not require grinding as such but some degree of shear may be required to break down any agglomerated particles.
  • Ready-to-use liquid pigment dispersions are also widely used despite the increased cost. These can be added directly to the oils and waxes without pre-processing. 
  • The pigment grind is added to the oil/wax phase and mixed until a homogeneous product has been achieved. This may require passing through a colloid mill or similar. 
  • The mixture is cooled slightly before fragrances, preservatives and other ingredients are added.
  • The finished product is held at a lower temperature before being poured into moulds and cooled to solidify.
  • The sticks may be “flamed” to produce a glossy finish to the surface.